|
| |
| |
Wool block,
Fur block, Hairballs or... Gut Stasis in Rabbits
|
|
revised 4/6/06 |
|

|
"My rabbit won't eat or drink
and there is no poop in his litter pan! What is wrong with him and what can I do?"
Your rabbit could be suffering from a
gut stasis or what is commonly called a fur ball, or woolblock. Your
rabbit vet is the best source for treatment and recovery options, but if
you cannot get to a vet, we have some information and suggestions for home treatment
below. Don't ignore these symptoms!
|
|
| |
|
General Information-woolblock
or gut stasis? |
top |
| |
|
Wool block, (woolblock) or fur block is a condition
people describe when a rabbit's gut stops working. Usually this problem is
at first blamed on a hair accumulation in the stomach because rabbits ingest
hair from grooming and other sources, and cannot vomit to remove it, like a cat
can.
A hairball is made up of hair and
digestive particles and is held together with a mucus-type substance. Many
people assume that when their rabbit stops eating or defecating, that their
rabbit is suffering from a 'furball', especially if the rabbit is also molting.
Apparently many rabbits have hair balls of various sizes within
their stomachs and live evidently normal lives, with no problems related to the
hair ball. It is only when several factors unite causing a gut stasis,
that the hair ball changes (becomes dried out, larger, moves into a position
blocking the intestinal opening) and then presents a problem to the rabbit, but
I am not certain the hairball is the first cause of the problem.
It has been known for a long time
that a rabbit's digestive system is very similar to a horse's - both
process food in much the same way (other than the rabbit and it's cecum) and
suffer like sensitivities to stress, feed
changes, carbohydrate overloads and the effects of water intake on the
stool/bowels.
Since I've had horses throughout a good part of my life, and in
fact lost my first pony to colic and a gut torsion, I can relate my experience
with horses somewhat to our rabbit hobby. I think a rabbit suffering from
a so-called furball is actually having a gut stasis of some sort.
There is evidence that the nerves affecting gut operation can go haywire to cause a
multitude of digestive problems, certainly gut stasis is a prominent one.
I
do think that the real cause of what people call a hairball or woolblock
episode, is really a reaction of the nerves supplying the digestive system
resulting in a gut stasis episode - .
Many of the articles I've read on gut stasis seem to confirm this also.
Some breeders believe the
predisposition to woolblock, as we'll continue to call it here, is an inherited one, and there appears to be some
supporting evidence of this in that some of these breeders only use wool block-free
rabbits in their breeding program and successfully produce animals that do not
suffer wool block episodes - I wonder if "defective" or overly-sensitive gut
nerves are an inherited trait?
There appears to be two forms of
this condition; an acute attack where the gut shuts down which is a
life-threatening event, and a more
chronic condition where the rabbit suffers slower-developing, less-intense attacks,
intermittently throughout life.
Both types warrant immediate
attention! A rabbit suffering from either type of attack can wither away
and die without treatment.
|
|
|
|
Symptoms
of Woolblock or gut stasis |
top |
|
|
-
decreased
amount of, or lack of hard fecal pellets or the appearance of
smaller-than-normal fecal pellets
-
along
with a refusal to eat or drink, or a noticeable decrease in appetite
-
sullen
appearance, inactive - often sitting in corner
-
advanced
or acute case rabbits may also exhibit teeth-grinding and other strange
sounds, a hunched position,
straining as if trying to defecate
|
|
|
|
Contributing factors causing Woolblock
or gut stasis |
top |
|
|
Our
own observations lead us to believe that a few factors, especially in
combination with each other, play an important roll in causing a woolblock/gut
stasis attack:
Lack of high-fiber
diet - food is supposed to move quickly through the rabbit's digestive
tract and fiber hastens this journey. Lack of fiber in the rabbit's
diet may cause a slowing of the digestion process, setting the scene for an
overgrowth of bacteria.
Lack of water
- a rabbit's system is similar to a horse's; lack of sufficient water intake
in a horse can lead to 'colic', a painful and sometimes fatal gut blockage.
Those affected in our rabbitry were rabbits that normally drank very little water, we
believe there is a direct relationship between lack of water and woolblock.
Overweight,
inactive, older rabbits - we've noticed that the few rabbits we've had who've
suffered from wool block, have been overweight and fairly inactive rabbits
who were all adults, most over 2 years old.
Stress - as
most rabbit enthusiasts already know, stress is an important factor in many
rabbit illnesses and conditions. Stress seems to have a direct affect
on the rabbit's gut motility and oftentimes causes problems related to
proper digestion.
|
|
| |
|
Other reasons your rabbit may stop
eating and drinking |
top |
| |
|
You must look at your rabbit's 'whole
picture' to determine the cause of why he stopped eating/drinking!
Your rabbit may not even be suffering a gut stasis, but simply has another
reason why he or she is not eating or drinking. Now keep in mind, you
may not have a lot of time to determine other causes before you being
treatment, if your rabbit is in a severe state you first must get him
treatment.
The first thing to consider is
your rabbit's food; feed can spoil or contain contaminants such as
mycotoxins, that can cause your rabbit to go off feed. Many breeders will remove the feed and try
using feed from a new, unopened bag to see if it makes a difference.
If you have other rabbits, their behavior can be a valuable clue; if all or
most of your rabbits are experiencing the same symptoms - you should look
first at the feed and possible mycotoxin poisoning.
Treats and extras; have you
recently introduced a new treat, vegetable, fruit or other extra food?
Carbohydrate overload can cause a gut stasis episode as can reaction to a
new food or treat.
Ingestion of non-edible objects;
did your rabbit chew up and ingest part of his plastic litterpan. toy or a
good amount of carpeting? Look for anything he might have eaten that could
cause an actual intestinal blockage!
Water; is your rabbit's water
source clean and in proper working order (automatic waterers and water
bottles - check the operation)
Hay; have you recently changed
hay types or sources? Hay, especially bought directly from a farmer or
stable can contain poisonous plants, dust, mold and other toxins.
Perhaps try switching to commercially-prepared grass hay from a pet store
for a few days to see if your hay was the culprit.
Other physical conditions;
does your rabbit have problems with his teeth? Have your vet assess
your rabbit's molars, especially if your rabbit develops a chronic habit of
not eating much. Many other diseases and conditions can cause chronic
wasting also; internal parasites, heavy infestation of external parasites.
Recent births, pregnancies and lactation, operations and treatments with
medicines can all present their own problems too. Thoroughly check
your rabbit over for other physical causes.
Environmental conditions; is
something putting your rabbit under stress such as predators or pests in
your rabbitry? Extreme heat and humidity may cause your rabbit to go off
feed. Look at your rabbit's overall living conditions to see if
there is something causing undue stress.
|
|
|
|
Treatment Goals |
top |
|
|
-
To
stimulate the gut and get it working again
-
To keep
the rabbit well-hydrated
-
To entice
the rabbit to begin eating and drinking again
-
To keep
the rabbit as pain-free, comfortable and stress-free as possible
|
|
|
|
Treatment |
top |
|
|
WARNING: We are not
veterinarians! The treatment plan below is based upon our own
limited experiences treating woolblock. We offer no guarantees that our
treatments will work for you - always consult your veterinarian before you
begin any treatment plan!
We treat woolblock or gut stasis in stages,
based upon symptoms present. Do not treat too aggressively - you may
cause more harm than good-especially if suspect your rabbit has another
illness or disease other than woolblock/gut stasis. During treatment, keep your rabbit as calm
and stress-free as possible-don't move him to a different location or
separate him from a buddy he may have!:
On the first day symptoms
are noticed, such as; the rabbit not eating,
along with the absence of fecal pellets or the appearance of smaller-than-normal pellets we:
1) Give the rabbit a dose of a
probiotic gel, such as Benepac or Pro-Biotics. Instructions for
dosages are on the tubes. We will feed this once or twice during the
first day.
2) Give the rabbit an
oral cat-lax type
product. We use a malt-flavored gel. For rabbits that will not
readily eat this, we smear an inch-long ribbon or more on either their lips
or their front paws and they almost always will lick it off. During the
first day we will give this a few times. Some people use plain mineral
oil instead of cat-lax paste - use about 3 to 8 cc and feed using an oral needle-less syringe - but do not hold the rabbit upside down to administer
this or you risk him inhaling the oil into his lungs. We do not
continue with any oil-type treatment beyond the first day because we are
wary too much may cause more gut problems for the rabbit.
3) To stimulate the
rabbit's appetite we offer; lots of hay, including some tempting alfalfa hay, fresh
pineapple chunks, a thick slice of banana. Emphasis is on hay - as too
many sugars and carbs in treat-type foods may cause a further imbalance of
gut flora and cause even more distress in the rabbit who's gut is at a
standstill.
Oftentimes, a rabbit will begin eating and drinking again after this
treatment and all that is needed is to closely monitor the rabbit to make
sure he is improving.
If the rabbit does not improve during that first day we will go to the next
step:
1) We make a 'slurry'
and orally feed this to the rabbit twice in one day for a maximum of one and
a half days, using a needle-less syringe. Do not hold the rabbit upside down
while feeding this slurry - as with the mineral oil, your rabbit could inhale the
product into his lungs if held in a position that is unnatural for eating.
|
|
|
Slurry for treating woolblock
-Meat tenderizer;
powdered, unflavored product you can buy in the grocery store in the spice
section. We've used approximately 1/8 to a 1/4 tsp. in each slurry
batch. This product contains Papain-as does fresh pineapple and
papaya, which supposedly helps break down the mucous holding a fur ball
together.
-Applesauce or
mashed banana; as a mixer and to get a little food in the gut hoping to
stimulate both the appetite and the gut to begin working again
-Simethicone
drops; made for human infants and available from a pharmacy. We
give smaller rabbits such as the Holland Lops about 2 or 3 drops, and double
that for the French Lop-sized rabbits. Due to changes in the rabbit's
gut during a gut-stasis episode, gas can build up -Simethicone may help
with any gas pain the rabbit is experiencing.
-Probiotics;
we continue giving the probiotics and will put a good dose into the slurry
-Water
as a mixer to make the slurry thin enough to easily feed using an oral
syringe.
|
|
|
2) Continue with
offering a lot of hay and some alfalfa
3) Hydration is very
important - if your rabbit is not drinking, you can force feed water
every couple of hours. This method of
hydrating the rabbit will only work for a day or day-and-a-half, and in cases of
complete gut blockage or stasis, I doubt water fed orally will work at all.
If the rabbit is in distress and a day or two has gone by, you will most
likely need to hydrate your rabbit by administering fluids under his skin so
his body can absorb enough to be effective. Your vet can do this for
you. Note: do not administer large amounts of fluid to a rabbit with a known
heart or kidney condition without your vet's recommendation!
Usually the rabbit will begin to recover after the above treatment -
we watch carefully,
continue to make sure he is hydrated and we still supplement daily with some probiotics for several days after an episode. We do not
feed the slurry above for more that a day and a half - we have concern that doing so can
cause an imbalance of sugars/carbs and electrolytes which can cause the
rabbit more harm than good. If the rabbit still does not show signs of
improvement after the above treatment we go to the next step below.
You should consider veterinary care at this point if you haven't seen any
improvement!
For rabbits not showing
improvement after the above treatment, or those who have not begun
defecating again we will continue with treatment below for a maximum of two
days, as long as the rabbit is not getting worse:
1) We again, make a
slurry as above, but instead of using the Meat Tenderizer, we use a human
stool softener called Ducosate Sodium, available at a pharmacy and
commonly called "Colace". We bought a bottle of 100 mg soft geltabs.
For large rabbits like the French Lops, we give approximately 80 mg of the
drug by gently cutting open a geltab and squeezing out most of the liquid
(of course, measuring this way is not accurate) into the slurry. The
smaller-sized rabbits, such as the Holland Lops, get about 30-40 mg of the
drug, so less than half of the contents of the geltab is squeezed out into
the slurry. This drug works by not allowing the intestines to 'suck out'
water from the stool, allowing it to stay moist or hydrated. ONLY FEED THIS STOOL SOFTENER ONCE A DAY! This will
usually cause the rabbit to produce stool the day after dosing, if it
doesn't, we will repeat the dose for one additional day - and if that
doesn't do the trick - it is time for a vet visit.
2) Continue with
offering hay
3) Continue with
hydration efforts-very important!
4) If the rabbit is not
eating, you may decide to force feed several times during each day.
You can modify the slurry above, leaving out the Meat Tenderizer and
Colace and perhaps adding some crushed rabbit pellets to the mix.
You can continue with the Simethicone drops for gas pain relief.
A
rabbit that recovers at this point may have some soft stool for a day or so,
from all the stool-softening drugs, but not diarrhea. The rabbit
should slowly begin eating, drinking and defecating. Watch closely for
several days to make sure the rabbit is steadily progressing to a normal
state. If no improvement, it definitely is time for the vet!
|
|
|
|
When To
Visit The Vet |
top |
|
|
Many rabbit owners will
try self-treatment first, due to cost, lack of veterinary care near home, or simply the desire to treat their
rabbit on their own.
Those who choose
home-treatment must be able to recognize when treatment is not effective and
a vet visit is necessary!
If, at any time during
this treatment, the rabbit is not improving, appears in pain, or develops
new or unusual symptoms - you should
take him into your vet. Your rabbit might have an illness or
disease that is worsened by the above treatment - many rabbit illnesses
begin with the same symptoms as woolblock/gut stasis; in particular,
mycotoxin poisoning which damages the intestinal lining and requires a
completely different treatment plan.
Your vet will
probably take an X-ray of your rabbit's abdomen to see if a true
blockage is present which helps determine a treatment plan, and has more resources and drugs such as
those that promote gastric emptying and gut motility such as Metoclopramide
and Cisapride (if there is not a blockage).
Many other intestinal
illnesses begin with symptoms similar to what a rabbit with woolblock first
exhibits - you need to be on the alert for additional symptoms which could
indicate a worsening condition or the start of another disease or illness
other than fur block.
Danger signs to watch
for include; excessive thirst sometimes coupled with the rabbit sitting
up on the water bowl for extended periods, intense licking of cage wire or objects in the cage,
obvious pain, unusual sounds the rabbit makes such as teeth grinding,
grunting or squeaking, worsening listlessness, wasting away, dehydration, diarrhea, mucous-coated or jelly-like stools, bloody
stools, bloated abdomen, "sloshy" sounding abdomen (similar to a 'rubber
water bottle effect'), loss of bladder control, subnormal or elevated
temperature, slow heartbeat, panting or labored breathing, paralysis of hind
legs, any discharge from eyes, nose or mouth. |
|
|
|
Prognosis and Prevention |
top |
|
|
I have learned from many
breeders that a rabbit who has suffered a bout of woolblock is always going
to be prone to suffer again. Many breeders have also expressed their
belief that susceptibility to woolblock may be an inherited weakness and
will not use the animal for breeding purposes-we agree with and follow this
same reasoning.
Successful treatment is
often dependant upon detecting symptoms early - extra monitoring of
wool block-prone rabbits is needed on a consistent basis.
Stress plays an
important roll in preventing future problems with wool block or gut stasis - if a show
rabbit survives a wool block episode, we now re-evaluate the importance of
ever again showing that rabbit, as the stress from showing surely has the
potential to cause another episode or gut stasis. We learned the hard
way about the relationship
between stress and gut motility when we lost one of our
most prized show does
to an acute gut stasis, this is certainly a mistake we will not be repeating.
In the hopes of
preventing wool block we:
- Feed hay every night to all our rabbits
- closely monitor water and feed intake
- remove loose hair from molting rabbits
and their cages
- prevent and reduce highly stressful situations as much as
possible
- We try to acclimate young rabbits to noises and
handling in hopes they will develop a tolerance for these normal stresses
and not react negatively to them later on.
- don't breed rabbits that have ever had
a wool block or gut stasis episode
Our experience with
wool block has been very limited; luckily, only a few rabbits of ours have
suffered from it, and we no longer show or use them for breeding. The
treatment we list above is a compilation of all the advice
we received from fellow breeders during our initial episode of wool block.
We have since been successful pulling rabbits out of wool block using the
treatment outlined above, but we are not sure which exact step or medicine
did the trick since we used several in combination.
|
|
|
|
Further Reading and Resources on woolblock and gut stasis |
top |
|
|
I
continue to find this condition interesting and try to read and research and
learn as much as I can from others who report new treatments and findings.
Please enjoy the links below - I have used these for reference for this
article, along with our own experiences:
Island Gems Hair Balls / Fur Ball Article
Betty Chu's TLC For English Angoras
Jacque Dumas' Article on Treating Woolblock
GastroIntestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer
How To Feed The Rabbit
Gastrointestinal Tract
Metoclopramide Insert
Metoclopramide from the Elephant Formulary
Metoclopramide from Medirabbit.com
Cisapride from Medirabbit.com |
|
|
|
|
|
|