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Cavy Cages & Housing Tips

Here are some tips on choosing a cage and furnishings for your cavy

 

Cage Features To Look For

1)  Adequate space for the cavy - at least 1 foot by 2 feet per cavy, preferably more!

2)  Easily cleanable - the cage and materials it is made out of must be easy to clean and disinfect or chances are, it won't be done properly.  Non-porous materials are preferable over products such as wood or particle boards.

3)  The cage must provide adequate air-flow.  Cavies can develop respiratory problems if forced to live in stale or ammonia-saturated air (from urine).

4)  Cage style must protect the cavy from other household pets!

5)  Last but not least - your cavy's cage MUST have a solid floor to it - cavies do not have thick foot pads nor do they have furred feet, such as rabbits, and they cannot tolerate wire flooring well.  (There might be flooring exceptions for some long-haired show cavies.)

 

A young Abyssinian cavyLocation of the Cage

1) Cavies prefer a mildly-warm climate and must be kept within your house - they cannot tolerate weather extremes or winter conditions!.  Cavies do not thrive in damp conditions either - so an unfinished or damp basement is not a good place for your cavy to live!

2) Place the cage away from direct sunlight, drafts or heat vents.

 

Cage Styles

We have used many different cavy cages over the years, including homemade cages and make-shift contraptions!  Below we will list the different styles along with good and bad points of each:

 

Aquariums are not good for cavies - they are usually too small and retain too much moisture and stale air within the cage space, plus they are difficult to handle while cleaning due to their heavy glass construction.  You can see the cavy through the glass walls which makes aquariums popular for school classroom pet housing.  Also, some like aquariums because they keep the bedding inside the cage, instead of on the floor!

 

Homemade cages constructed of wood and wire are ok, but need special attention and cleaning of the wood surfaces to prevent bacteria growth and odor.  The plus side to the homemade cage is that you can construct it any way, shape, and size you want.  You can even make it 'special order' to fit into a designated space within your home - your imagination can create quite an interesting playground/cage for your cavies!  Just remember to plan on a solid, easily- cleanable floor for your cavies!

 

I was recently visiting some friends who had an interesting way of housing their cavy herd - they first laid out a sturdy 6' x 8' plastic tarp on the floor, then around the outer edges, they placed building bricks, high enough so the cavies could not easily jump out - they then 'filled' the tarp with a thick layer of shavings.  They also provided a variety of houses and toys along with food and water bowls inside.  They were able to house several cavies this way-and they have tons of room!  The whole thing seemed like a lot of work to me, but they assured me that cleaning was a snap - daily they scooped out wet bedding and added a bit of fresh bedding.  About once a month they would clean the whole 'cage' by moving the bricks aside and 'roll' the tarp up, then conveniently empty the bedding into a trash bag.  Definitely a two-person job.

 

For several years, we used the metal-wire cages, with the flip-open tops and the heavy galvanized sheet metal pans.  These provided plenty of room for the guinea pigs, were relatively inexpensive and portable, and fairly easy to clean.  They also provided excellent airflow to the animal inside!  One drawback is the space they took up - we have always had several guinea pigs and space in our house is at a premium - we had to buy metal shelving to stack these cages on.  The other drawback about this type of cage, and in fact, any open-wire cage, is that the ever-active guinea pigs continuously shoot the bedding out of the cage-making quite a mess!

 

After several years of breeding and maintaining a growing herd of cavies, we needed to find another cage solution that was cheaper than the individual metal-wire cages were.  We discovered the clear plastic storage-type containers, similar to what you would call a 'storage-tote'  These come in many sizes and are very affordable, easy to clean and offer the pig a view of his world!  We've written a short article on this cage style and how to modify storage totes for cavy cage use. Visit Cheap Cavy Cages to read more....

 

Recently we purchased some stacking cavy cages to accommodate more cavies in a smaller area.  These stacking cages are basically the wire cages mentioned earlier in this article, but permanently stacked one on top of another.  The front side of each cage is a door that opens outwards and the pans can be slid out when the door is opened.  Either metal pans or newer plastic pans can be ordered with the cage.  We purchased our stacking cages from Da-Mar's in Illinois, and were able to affordably 'custom order'  the size, style and number of cages in each of our stacker units.  Many other cage suppliers also make these  They cost roughly $25-$30 per 'section' or individual cage - so if you purchase a 4-cage rack, plan on around $120 or so.  

 

We like the wire-sided cages because they allow more air circulation for our pigs.  The pans we ordered are metal with 3 inch high sides, but I wish I had ordered higher-sided, and plastic pans - the shavings still tend to get 'shot out' the wire of the cage and end up all over the floor.  These stackers are easy to clean, and water bottles readily attach to the wire sides. 

 

Furnishing the Cage

We try to provide each cavy with a 'house'.  Oftentimes this is nothing more than a box or an oatmeal box, but the plastic 'igloos' sold in stores are also popular.  The guinea pigs love their houses - they chew them, race around them, climb on them and hide in them.  Our home is fairly active and noisy and the guinea pigs appreciate a dark place to hide if something frightens them.  If you use cardboard, take care not to use boxes that held poisons or chemicals, and remove all staples, tape and stickers too!

 

Cavies must use a water bottle for water - they will quickly and thoroughly soil a bowl of water, if they don't tip it over first!  Cavies drink a lot of water and it is tempting to purchase a huge water bottle to satisfy their thirst - but these large, rabbit-sized bottles have a large-diameter sipper tube that can be difficult for the cavy to drink from, and they end up dribbling much of the water onto the bedding, so stick with the smaller (8-16 oz) bottles.  Do not use a water bottle with a glass sipper tube, your cavy will break the glass!

 

Food bowls should be small (3-5 inch diameter), fairly shallow, and heavy.  A ceramic crock-type dish works well.  No matter what you use, there will be some feed loss - cavies take great delight in soiling their feed and can always accomplish this despite your efforts to prevent it!

 

Bedding

There are many articles on the internet claiming pine bedding is bad for pets, including cavies.  Apparently some groups' studies have determined that pine bedding might cause certain cancers and liver problems, therefore they recommend Aspen shavings for use as cavy bedding. 

 

In our area, Aspen costs twice as much as pine.  While Aspen shavings might be affordable for someone who owns one or two cavies, it is not a practical bedding for our caviary.  Occasionally we've purchased Aspen, especially when we raised Gerbils,  but we have used pine shavings for years and don't believe we've had any ill effects from it.  Keep in mind that cavies really do not live that long to begin with, I would think that even if pine shavings really could cause a cancer or liver problem, it probably would not be able manifest itself within the normal lifespan of a guinea pig. 

 

If you use pine shavings, you will find that each manufacturer produces completely different shavings!  You will need to try different brands to find the one you like.  Strive to find a 'softer' bedding with wood curls vs wood chunks, look for a sifted or dustless product, and one that absorbs well.

 

Don't choose shavings that have a consistency close to sawdust - this finely-ground bedding can accumulate in a boar's anal pouch area and cause you to experience the lovely job of cleaning out your boar's anal sac.

 

There are many other beddings out there but truthfully we haven't used them as most are cost-prohibitive for us.  Aromatic cedar shavings have always been popular with people as these shavings tend to 'mask' the animal's odors, but they should not be used as sole bedding - they can cause respiratory problems.  Occasionally we will throw a handful of cedar shavings in with the pine shavings and our cavies have never suffered ill effects from this.

 

Most long-haired breeds should not be housed on shavings or other fine particle beddings because these beddings will quickly become tangled up in the cavy's hair strands creating quite a mess!  For these, you can use the pellet-type beddings. I've also known of some breeders using plastic-coated wire for flooring for these long-hairs, and some have a few pieces of indoor-outdoor type carpet - replacing the soiled one with a clean on while the soiled one is washed and left to dry in the sun.  We don't raise the long haired breeds so if you want more info - please contact some the the breeders in our other website - The Rabbit & Cavy Directory

 

Good luck in your search for cavy housing!  If we can be of any help please email us!

Cathy LaReau , July 05

 

 

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